Updating older bottom brackets
We broke down every type of bottom bracket you are likely to encounter and present them in a simple, easy to understand format.
From mountain to road, threaded to pressed, and integrated to external, it’s all here… Bottom bracket compatibility is one of the most confusing topics for amateur and seasoned cyclists alike. There was one bottom bracket design, and it was strong, durable, and easy to service.
Make sure both the frame and the cups are free of grease before applying the thread retaining compound.
Be careful not to put any of the thread retaining compound on your frame, as it could damage the paint if left too long.
Many vintage road bicycles are fitted with open seat posts, which will also allow water and road debris to enter the bottom bracket cavity.
Bottom bracket maintenance is very important and should be conducted at regular intervals.
While its concept is simple enough to understand, when it comes to bottom bracket technology, it’s easy to get confused.
Incremental changes almost every year coupled with a slew of proprietary technologies from major component companies have flooded the market with more options than ever before, and it can be very confusing for the average cyclist.
The Basics: The bottom bracket is a critical component to every drive train.An explaination of the different bottom bracket tapers can be found here. The less common of the three tapers offered is the JIS low profile, which is used in some specific older-model Dura Ace cranks.In brief, most modern cranks will take the JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) taper, in addition to Campagnolo cranks produced before 1994. We recommend that a light film of grease be applied to the taper.Since 1976 Cycl Art has rebuilt thousands of bikes; some with purely “correct” vintage parts suitable for collector’s shows, some state-of-the-art bikes, and mixes of old and new.You know you like the fit, comfort, durability and classic look of your frame.